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  • Writer's pictureAlison Byers

in a grave(s) state

States: 42 Days: 246 Miles: 44,459


I have spent the last few weeks dipping in and out of Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming and it has proven to be one of the most spectacular experiences of my life. My first major stop was Yellowstone National Park, and I now owe a random guy in a South Dakota bar $50, as he bet me that it would be one of the most incredible things I’d ever seen in my life. Which it was. Duly informed by the Interweb that the park got unpleasantly busy by lunchtime, and given my lifelong dislike for humanity in general, let alone along cramped trails and scenic spots, I decided to get up before sunrise each day to venture into the park for sunrise, so that I could make the most of the less crowded time between 6am and 10am. Which proved to be a great strategy, as although there were still quite a few eager beavers like me willing to brave the early morning to see the park in its glory, rather than behind a mile of traffic, it was easy to get around and see the sights unencumbered. The only issue with going into the park so early is that there wasn’t quite enough time for the sun to burn off the clouds in order to see everything in glorious midday sunshine, and even when there was a clear sunrise, the sun was at an awkward angle, so many of the reflecting pools were simply mirrors of glass, rather than the grand prismatic depths that were promised.


However, I made the most of my re-prioritising ability, understanding the whole scope of activities that needed to be achieved in the four-day period and assessed the daily situation to ensure the most optimum delivery of activities on each day, dependent upon the weather and distance to desired locations (yes, I’m applying for jobs… what’s your point?!).


Yellowstone was absolutely incredible. If you combine my love of all things volcanic, wide-open spaces, scenic views, and excitement at the ability to come within a few metres of some incredible wildlife that I’ve never seen in the wild before – it’s my paradise. I spent the first few days hiking along some of the lesser-known areas, as the weather wasn’t great, but it did give rise to some incredible post-apocalyptic landscapes. On day three, I hiked through the other-worldly Mammoth Hot Springs, where crystallised calcium carbonate and brown, orange, red, and green algae have created a bizarre panorama that looks simultaneously frozen over and steaming hot.

Algae ponds at Mammoth Hot Springs

I was gloriously rewarded on my final day with a beautifully sunny morning, so I hiked through as many pools and hot springs as I could find, and they were truly spectacular. None more so than the Morning Glory Pool, which looked too good to be true in all the photos but turns out looks exactly as incredible in real life. After three failed days of attempting to see the Grand Prismatic Spring (finally realised that first thing in the morning, the air was too cold and therefore the view was always going to be obstructed by the steam from it and surrounding springs), I braved the queues and crowds in early afternoon to hike the overlook and the boardwalk around the spring, which was very much worth it (despite the proliferation of other people) and I managed to get some great (if still a little steamy) shots of the water and surrounding microbial mats.


As if Wyoming wasn’t spectacular enough, I then went south to the lovely Jackson and explored Grand Teton National Park for a few days. This was much more manageable for someone who hates crowds, as there is so much open space there, even if you were standing with a hundred other people, all you had to do was look towards the mountains and you would feel like you were the only person in the world. I also happened to be staying in gorgeous cabin, of which I took full advantage, cooking lots of healthy food and spending early mornings in my pyjamas reading the news (albeit on my smartphone instead of a newspaper), which is a ritual I have missed being on the road so much.

From the Tetons, I took another grand detour (1,600 miles this time) to Bodie Ghost Town in California (another one of my 100 places). As I had planned this trip in the summer, Google maps told me that there was a nice and easy way to get from Yosemite to Bodie, so I had planned to do them at the same time back in November. However, it turns out that the roads are only open in the summer and during winter Bodie is pretty much a no-go area. Hence another grand detour, but well worth it this time, as, in addition to seeing the beautiful Bodie, I also got to go through Ely, Nevada again, which is a town I am quickly falling in love with. Bodie was spooky and surreal like you’d been transported back in time to a town where all the inhabitants had been disappeared by some global tragedy and you were the only person left in the world. Quite a haunting experience and, not that I think anyone should drive 1,600 miles for it, but it’s well worth a visit if you’re in the area.


Re-joining my original route, I wound may way through Idaho and Montana to Glacier National Park, which was one area that I had been most looking forward to since I started planning this trip. I had read that overcrowding, traffic, and parking issues were also a problem here, so I resolved to do the same 4am wake up routine and get in and out early, as proved so successful in Yellowstone. However, day one proved to be a spectacular fail. In Yellowstone I was in a dorm room, so tapping the snooze button would have been rude to the other occupants, so I jumped up and got out quickly and quietly so as not to disturb them. In my ridiculously comfortable bed in the suite I found myself in in Glacier, however, my subconscious had no such qualms and I duly managed to snooze until 8am without consciously noticing. At 8am, I jumped out of bed, annoyed to have slept in, only to get hit with a rush to the head, dizziness, nausea, and weak knees, so much so that I had to go back to bed and sleep until 10. For those that don’t know, I have an autoimmune disorder called Graves Disease. Usually, it is completely manageable, and I don’t notice the difference from day to day, but on this particular day, I was feeling it. I decided to take the day to rest and build up my strength, after all, I had another four days to explore the park. This seemed to work, as on day two, after waking up in the late morning, I felt fine, so headed out to drive the ‘Going to the Sun Road’ and see if the park lived up to my expectations. The views were truly breath-taking and that was just the views from the scenic drive, let alone what the hiking trails promised. I planned the next three days (the scenic drive took 6 hours, so that’s all I managed on that day) to explore Many Glacier to the East and then some of the trails within the main body of the park.


On my Many Glacier day, I planned to wake up at 3am to get to the other side of the park for sunrise and I almost managed it, finally getting up and out by 5am. At the start of the hike, I met a group of ladies from Seattle, who offered to hike with me (shouldn’t hike alone because of the bears). All was going very well until about mile three, when I could feel hints of dizziness, nausea, and muscle weakness nipping at me. I did a very quick and simple calculation and my practical self knew that there was only one option. I really shouldn’t carry on the full five and a half miles to the top, no matter how spectacular the vistas promised to be. Plus, I’d then be five and a half miles up a glacier and would have to walk five and a half miles back. Mortified, I stopped the hiking party and had to admit to the other ladies that it probably wasn’t smart for me to carry on and I’d need to go back. Seems like I was only just in time, as I barely managed to take a phone number from one of the ladies when my body completely betrayed me. Pretty much all the symptoms of Graves hit me at once – I felt dizzy, nauseous, weak, my hands were shaking, my heart felt like it was trying to escape from my chest and the heat was not helping the situation. Pride and embarrassment kept me upright for the next few metres whilst I walked down the hill and out of sight and I then collapsed in a trembling heap and waited for it to pass.

Still managed to see some spectacular views

After the worst had passed, I started walking back down the trail, completely embarrassed to have to admit to myself as well, as a group of strangers, that something that is usually so completely normal for me is suddenly unattainable. I had to fight the urge to over-explain to the ladies that I wasn’t some stupid unfit person that just didn’t understand my own ability – I could do this last week! The three miles back were incredibly difficult, as every time I stopped, I felt like I was going to collapse, but I barely had the energy to keep going. It was even more desperate after realising that even when I got back to my car, I was still 102 miles away from my accommodation, so I had a long way to go and a long time for which I still had to hold it together. I had to fight away the tears then and even now, reliving it, I can feel them pricking at me. I felt so frustrated at myself that this spectacular part of the world was at my fingertips and felt so useless at not being able to make the most of it.

The next day, I spent all day sleeping. Which only added to my frustration and new feelings of guilt for wasting an incredible opportunity. On my final day, I did manage a smaller five-mile hike to Avalanche Lake, which was still pretty tough going, but at least I could leave knowing I had completed something. I’m gutted still, as I definitely didn’t make the most of the park and there was so much I didn’t get to see. I am resolved that I must come back at some point and try again. The small amount that I did see was incredible and I wish I could have seen more. But maybe one for another year.


I’ve been trying to take it easy since Glacier and not over-do any activity. However, the Graves and general travel fatigue is starting to make me feel like I’m just going through the motions again. Just as well I get to take a break next week and refill my Bristol-ometer of love at another friend’s wedding. Plus the annual family party, which I have missed too many times due to my gallivanting activities. My friends are so thoughtful to arrange weddings just at the time I need a break and a recharge.

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