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  • Writer's pictureAlison Byers

best-laid plans

States: 7 Days: 48 Miles: 17,804

Four states in one afternoon... Check. But which way to go next?

Changing plans at the last minute has become quite natural on this trip so far. Turns out Bodie is unreachable in the winter, so I’m going to have to double back from Idaho in the summer to visit. I was only supposed to stay in Ely for 12 hours, and we all know what happened there. I somehow didn’t put -17-degree temperature and the fact that Paria canyon is a river canyon together. Frozen feet not something I wanted to experience in the depths of winter. Canyonlands, Arches, Mesa Verde, and Chaco Culture National Parks all closed due to the shutdown. El Rancho de las Golondrinas was also closed for winter – I knew it would be, but I thought I might be able to walk around the site at least. I couldn’t; so will be cutting down from Nebraska in the summer to see that one. And my latest curve-ball; having to swallow the cost of a double-booking, as my non-refundable motel in Tucson was truly unbearable, so I have run away to beautiful, peaceful Tombstone instead.


I knew it wasn’t going to be great, based on the reviews. All very negative apart from one - the best thing someone could say about it was that there was a convenience store across the street. I read all these negative reviews and decided I didn’t really care. My travel philosophy has always been that all I need is a bed and a shower, and I can cope with anything else, as the purpose isn’t to enjoy the hotel, but to get out and see the world. Turns out I was wrong. I also need a flushable toilet and a sense of personal safety. I had neither at this place.

Giant Saguaro in south Arizona

I didn’t like Tucson at all. The surrounds are beautiful – I arrived at sunset, so the surrounding hills and mountains were glowing luminous Arizona red in the sunset and Saguaro National Park is like a cartoon version of southern Arizona with all the giant Saguaro cacti and distant mountains. I kept expecting a cowboy shootout whilst a sassy saloon owner looked on disapprovingly. However, I was not a fan of Tucson itself. It was probably my fault for choosing that motel in that part of town, but I felt so uncomfortable and didn’t want to stay. So I didn’t. I can’t tell you how much of a weigh rose from my chest when I found myself back in the wide open of Saguaro National Park and finally here in Tombstone (where I have already made a friend 😊). Lesson learned. Not a fan of cities.


MTIHLSF (More Things I Have Learned So Far):

If you leave apples in a car at -17-degrees, they will not be edible for breakfast. Or lunch. Turns out dinner is fine.

Just because your sat nav tells you to go down a road, it doesn’t mean that a) that road exists, b) that road is driveable or c) you won’t literally get stuck in the mud in the middle of Back End of Nowhere, New Mexico.

Even more exciting than seeing a wild coyote is seeing a wild roadrunner. Running across the road. No word of a lie, it was amazing.


I was supposed to be in Tucson for three days, but after one very uncomfortable, nervous, sleepless night, I used the 5am fire alarm as a literal wake-up call and got up and got out as quickly as I could. I stopped by the airport to swap out my car (my wing mirror had an argument with an oil tanker truck. In my defence; he started it. But it was an oil tanker truck after all, so we lost). The new car is appropriately a Hyundai Tucson and I’ve decided to keep the name Beast, as this one is also a beast, but it is also the same colour as X-Man Beast, so feel it is even more appropriate.


Tomorrow I will be exploring Tombstone and Bisbee and all the history of the Wild West. Tonight, I’m celebrating my relief and safety in my pyjamas in my lovely quiet, clean, flushable motel room, watching Tombstone. In Tombstone.

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