States: 1 Days: 7 Miles: 8,719
I had planned to wait until I reached LA on the 7th to write my first “proper” blog, so that I could address the Hawaiian Islands as one, but so much has happened and my head is bursting with things to record. So, I now find myself sitting, laptop agog, at the Hana Ranch restaurant in Hana, East Maui, sipping on a Big Swell IPA and waiting for my Ahi Poke and Ranch Steak Pupu. It is 24 degrees, I have a view of the Pacific Ocean, and I am listening to Mariah Carey crooning about all she wants for Christmas. I am in love with Maui and wishing that I had planned to spend more time here and much less in Honolulu… but I get ahead of myself.
The 47 hours of travelling from Bristol to Honolulu has almost been forgotten (almost), as so much has happened in just a few days. Three flights (London to Toronto, Toronto to Vancouver, and Vancouver to Honolulu) and two very long layovers has reinforced two things for me: 1) I am very good at entertaining myself for long periods of time, and 2) I am very good at sleeping. Anywhere. At any time.
My first sights and sounds of Hawaii were experienced in a jet-lagged, travel-weary blur and perhaps for this reason (but perhaps not), Honolulu failed to impress. The people were all very lovely, from the bus driver who gave me a free ride to from the airport, as I didn’t have correct change, to the crystal meth addict (yes, really) and the surf instructor who checked that I was OK and knew my way home after a late dinner, to the group of people giving out ‘Free Hugs’ on the promenade. However, the city itself felt commercialised, impersonal, and a bit too-cool-for-school. Perhaps it was my own insecurities and tiredness that led to this feeling and perhaps I am doing Honolulu a great disservice, but I am afraid I am not a fan.
I went on a nice morning trip to Pearl Harbour, my affinity for the Military and interest in history sated after being a “guest of the US Navy” on a trip around the harbour (all photos uploaded in the Gallery section of the blog and you can also follow me in (almost) real-time on my Polarsteps site). On the way back from Pearl Harbour, I got my first State Star Tattoo.
Aside (1): I have decided to get a small star tattoo for each state that I visit. The pre-requisites are that it must be about the size of a 5p piece (I have brought one for scale) and must be recognisable as a star of some description. All other details are down to the tattooist and should somehow represent the state.
I also went on a good hike of Diamond Head State Park, which is an almost perfectly circular volcanic caldera formed by a massive, one-off eruption and the subsequent settling of volcanic ash. It was a good hike and a great panorama (plus, I have a thing for volcanoes) and made me feel as though I had done justice to Honolulu. But I was happy to leave.
Leaving turned out to be slightly more different than I imagined, however, as (in a bid to save a few pennies) I had chosen to book my flight to Maui with Mokolele Airlines. On arrival at Honolulu airport, I couldn’t find my flight on the departures board. On asking an attendant, I was told that Mokolele Airlines was “off airport” and I needed to get a shuttle. Diligently obliging, I hurried for the shuttle, slightly worried, as I only had 65 minutes before my flight and sometimes they close the check-in desks a while before departure. I needn’t have worried. The shuttle dropped me off at what I can only describe as a large bus shelter on stilts. The only aircraft I could see was an eight-seater light aircraft. On “check-in”, I was informed that I didn’t need a boarding pass. And indeed, I didn’t, as they checked us onto the plane using our first names. There were six of us. However, it was the best decision, as the views from the low-flying craft were spectacular.
On arrival to Maui, I realised that I had been too generous to Honolulu. Honolulu is a horrible place. Maui is a beautiful Pacific island paradise.
Waking up slightly before the crack of dawn on my first proper day in Maui, on a boat trip to the Molokini Crater – an almost completely submerged caldera that is apparently a perfect snorkelling spot and guaranteed turtle-spotting site – I was slightly disappointed to learn that due to weather conditions, the wind made it too hazardous to visit the crater and we would be sailing around the coast in search of snorkelling opportunities instead. Nevertheless, it gave me ample opportunity to try out my new underwater camera and try again to overcome my fear of the ocean. No turtles, but a great day was had by all, despite the unexpected change of plan.
My second day on Maui has been my favourite day so far and one of my favourite days ever. The itinerary for today was to drive the “Road to Hana”, a popular highway traversing half of the island and capturing a number of beautiful, picturesque, and interesting sights along the way. My journey took me from Kihei, clockwise up past Kahului, stopping briefly at the picturesque Paia town to add caffeine to my journey and stock up on lunch snacks, through to Twin Falls waterfalls, multi-coloured trees at the Garden of Eden Arboretum, a beautiful vista at Pua’a Kaa state park, more waterfalls at Hanawi, an ancient Hawaiian temple at Kahanu Garden, and a volcanic black sand beach at Wai'anapanapa State Park. The highlight of my day and trip so far, though, was the Hana Lava Tube.
Aside (2): This is going to sound very weird, but I’m going to admit something here. The feeling I get when I walk into a bookshop is the same feeling I get when I’m in love. (Hey – I already told you it was going to sound weird, just bear with me…) The feeling of your heart being as light as a feather whilst simultaneously being filled with lead. The feeling that every breath you take is filling every part of your body with tingling life. The feeling of immense joy and parallel apprehension, such that you can’t help but beam from ear to ear whilst your eyes are prickling with tears. I don’t allow myself into bookshops, because I spend stupid amounts of money. This sucks, because 1) I don’t get to feel in love, and 2) I don’t get to leave with stupid amounts of money’s worth of books.
This feeling was also how I felt in the Hana Lava Tube. The name to me suggested something in the way of a theme park water ride, so I was not expecting the reality. An underground lava tunnel made almost a thousand years ago when volcanic flows cooled on top of the ground and therefore forced the lava underground in a succession of ever narrowing tunnels one inside the other, as the outer layers cooled. Walking for hundreds of meters underground, a torchlight illuminating the various types, textures, and colours of solidified lava flows was awesome to me. You have not lived until you have seen stalactites and stalagmites made of cooled lava (did I mention I had a thing for volcanoes?). I have tried to capture some photos, but they absolutely do not do the place justice. So for my sister, Blandine, whose parting words to me were “Fall in love, lots and lots” – this is one!
After a long day of driving, I am now happily ensconced in my hut-tent (a tent in a hut… I don’t know why) on the outskirts of Hana, ready for an early night so I can get up at sunrise and see what more Maui has to offer. The Road to Hana doesn’t actually stop at Hana, so I have the second half of the journey to make tomorrow. If it is anything like today, I will be a happy hut-camper.
Aside (3): Things I have learned so far:
Choosing a coffee at a service-station takes about 20 minutes (there are at least 50 choices!)
“Whereabouts” is not a word that is widely understood.
Double-fisting is illegal… and not what you think it is! (Double-parking a drink).
A 3 Musketeers Bar is a chocolate Milky-Way.